Cee – Finisterre

Saturday 18th May 2024

18.6 km    27.059 steps

Another morning of rain, but today was my last day.  

It seemed very strange to be putting on my walking shoes for the last time on this trip, but I was happy it was perhaps the last time I’d need my lovely red poncho for a while.  It’s really come in very handy, especially this last week.

The way was hilly as expected but beautiful even in the rain, which managed to stop when I reached the sea.  It’s a lovely coastline, and I eventually came to the gorgeous beach that Fuzz and I walked along barefoot in 2015.  I really didn’t feel like being bothered to take my shoes off, so I walked along the path instead.

The rain stopped, and the sun came out.

It’s quite a long but gentle climb up to the lighthouse at Cape Finisterre to reach the 0 km way marker.   I enjoyed that climb knowing it’s my last climb this trip and then suddenly I arrived and it’s all over!

So that’s a wrap!

I’ve walked over 800km in 44 days, independently, and I’ve carried everything I needed for that entire time on my back.
It’s amazing how little we really need.

The Romans thought Finisterre was the most westerly point (it actually isn’t) and, therefore, the end of the earth.  They thought the horizon was the line between the known and unknown worlds.  I quite like that.

I want to thank everyone who’s followed along and given me so much encouragement.  It’s very much appreciated.

I am blessed to have had the ability and opportunity to have done this.  The people I have met and the friendships I’ve formed have filled me with joy. I am truly grateful for every piece of the jigsaw that made this journey complete.

Heading out on a very wet last day.

Excited to be near the finish.

Fuzz and I walked barefoot along this beach in 2015. 

I made it!

The lighthouse.

Pilgrim on his way up to the lighthouse.

O km way marker.   No more kilometres to go.

Accommodation

Hotel Langosteira  booking.c  €38.00

Clean, good location ok for one night.

Olveiroa- Cee

Friday 17th May 2024

19.5 km  28.584 steps.

What an awesome start to today!

When I woke up, I thought I’d have a quick look at my phone before everyone in the room started moving around.   I saw a message from Ben to say he’d walked into Olveiroa.   I’d walked in the day before.   When I looked more closely at the message, I realised he’d sent that message yesterday just after I’d gone to bed.  So that meant we were both in the same town. 

He came and met me for breakfast, and we had a very emotional reunion.   It was wonderful to see him and filled my heart with joy.

It rained on and off all day, but that didn’t detract from a beautiful days walk filled with great scenery, beautiful flowering shrubs, and wild flowers that all added colour on a grey and rainy day.  The surfaces were nice to walk on mostly as well today.

Last night was a good albergue night, and my last albergue for this trip.  It was a lovely albergue, and my bunk mates were all lovely, too.   The Italians left at 5.30 am and were as quiet as mice.  The snorer had his cpap machine, which was fantastic, and another young lady and I got on like a house on fire and had quite a few laughs.  It always amazes me how quickly friendships can form on the Camino.  It’s all part of the wonderful experience and it makes me very happy.

After I’d checked into my accommodation for today, I went out for a wander around.   I bumped in Kristain and his father in law the two lovely Brazilian chaps I’ve been bumping into on and off for ages now.  We had a nice catch-up, and they’ve given me a great tip for somewhere to eat.

So… tomorrow is my last day to walk.  That’s hard to believe since I started walking on the 5th of April.   It’s become a bit of a habit.

Go to Finisterre or Muxia…  I’d already decided to go via Finisterre.

Flowers and flowering shrubs.

The sea is in the distance.

Accommodation..    Hotel Larry Booking.c

€45.00.  I stayed here with Fuzz in 2015 and thought I’d come back.  It’s a bit tired but very clean and comfortable.   Unfortunately, the restaurant only opens for breakfast now. 

A Pana And Paxie – Olveiroa

Thursday 16th May 2024

25km  35.231 steps

It was raining as a forecast this morning, so there was no surprise there, and I was ready to go with rain gear on by 8 am.  I love my new red poncho.  It’s perfect and has already proved ( proven?) to be worth every penny.

I’m out of the forest now and into open country.  Farms and cows, lots of cows … geez, they stink!

The way undulated along, the rain came and went and came again and in-between showers it was very windy.  Sometimes, a strong headwind that made a downhill feel like an uphill.  I enjoyed today regardless.  

There was a lot of bitumen to walk on, which always makes me happy…  no mud, and it doesn’t require a lot of concentration.   It was also another solo day, and that was perfectly fine with me.

I arrived at my albergue and thought I’d try my luck and see if they had a private room spare.  No, they didn’t.   Not to worry.  I’m in a dorm or 6 and they gave me a towel. 

A very nice young lady from the UK is also in my room.  While we were talking, two Italians arrived.  I was impressed they wanted to leave their smelly boots outside of the room.. they get bonus points from me for that.   I had a very brief conversation in Italian with one of them, and I was actually quite proud of myself.  I really need a couple of months immersion in Italy… I really think I’m on the cusp of picking it up… but I’ve been thinking that for years.

Accommodation

Albergue Manola.  Booking.c  €15

They gave me a towel to use.  I’m in a room of 6.  The showers are the best I’ve had in an albergue yet.  If you’re doing albergues, I recommend this one.  Just don’t arrive at Spanish lunchtime because they have a very popular restaurant attached.

Negreira – A Pena and Piaxe

Wednesday, May 15th, 2024

9km   13.800 steps

It was a short day of 9km today.  I arrived at A Pena and Piaxe and my wonderful albergue Rectoral San Mamede da Pena. 

It’s a rainy and chilly day.  I was too early to check in and they were still cleaning, I knew I’d be too early and I was happy to just wait at the bar, but the wonderful owner of the albergue, Manuel who is a lovely and very kind man let me in and put the log fire on to keep me warm while I waited.  He even gave me a towel to use being as I no longer have mine because I threw it away as I didn’t want to carry it anymore.  I thought I was finished with albergues and dormitory life.

While I waited for the cleaner to finish, I realised  there were also private rooms here.  While the albergue is excellent and each bed has its own curtain, I decided to treat myself… let’s call it an early birthday present and a belated Mother’s Day present to myself.  So I upgraded to a private room.  It’s beautiful!  Manuel made sure the heating was on for me, too.

Anyway, the walk was absolutely beautiful even though it rained.  It was mostly in the forest, gradually climbing the whole time and I had the whole forest mostly to myself.

Looking back towards Negreira.

Rainbow.

The log fire made it nice and cosy.

The view out of my window after I upgraded.

Accommodation….                                   Rectoral San Mamede da Pena.                     It is an albergue for €17  booking.c                 It also has beautiful private rooms for €60.   Communal meal €13

Santiago de compostela – Negreira

Tuesday 14th May 2024

21.7 km  32.395

It was so hard trying to decide what to do with the extra days spare that I’ve got.  A part of me wanted to walk on, and a part of me just wanted to stay in SdC and rest.  I decided late yesterday that I’d walk on. 

When I woke up this morning, I discovered I’d become the part of me that just wanted to stay and rest, but that was just too bad.  It was organised so off I went with my rain gear very handy as it showered on and off lightly most of the day.

I was really enjoying the walk.  I bumped into my young German friends at the start, and only Leon was going to walk.  Victoria will meet him in Finisterre,  her blisters have won which is a shame as she was really looking forward to this section.

The two Brazilian men (father in law and son in law duo)  I’ve been seeing since way back are on the way to Finisterre/ Muxia as well.  They stayed at the same place as me last night and we had breakfast together.   One speaks no English the other a little, but we communicate just fine, and they are lovely gentle and kind souls, and it’s always so lovely being around them.

The walk was lovely once I stopped feeling tired.   There was more of the same green woodland scenery that I’ve been seeing for days, even a Roman bridge and birds chirping away merrily.  The way was just nicely undulating along and then…. the bloody lung buster of a climb that just went on and on.  I saw a sign that said 10% for 2km.  I thought .. surely not.   Well, it surely was, and if that was two km then, dip me in chocolate and roll me in 100’s and 1000s!  It felt like much more than that.

Just towards the end of the climb, I met Leon, my young German friend, again, and we had a lovely time wandering along, chatting.  I love that age doesn’t matter on the Camino.  I’ve witnessed this often, and I like that.  He’s such a smart, switched on, young man and thoughtful and kind as well. 

So… I’ve had another day where my heart was full of joy and thankfulness.

Looking back to the Cathedral.

More green along the way.

Roman bridge.

On someone’s grass at the top of the bloody long climb.

Another lovely bridge and river.

Kay and Leon.

Accommodation.

Hostal La Mezquita  €42.00.  I found them on the Wise Pilgrim app and phoned to book.

It’s very nice and has been upgraded since Fuzz and I stayed here in 2015.

Santiago de compostela

Monday 13th May 2024

0 km

The rain absolutely bucketed down today.  I’m glad I wasn’t walking.  I felt sorry for the poor drenched pilgrims that arrived today.

I still hadn’t decided what to do tomorrow and for the free days I’ve got.  All sorts of ideas swirled around.  The main problem is getting affordable accommodation because there are so many people here right now.  I pondered on it all day.

I got my rain gear on and headed off to the laundry, which is really close by.  It’s always nice getting everything clean again.  Paul from our Brisbane group came and kept me company for a little while and that was nice.

Once the washing was done and back in my room, I headed out for a wander round in the town.  It was still bucketing down rain.  I was very thankful for my umbrella.  The cathedral bells started ringing, and it was time for Mass.  The pilgrims all got blessed, which was nice.  It’s a shame the Botafumeiro isn’t in action at the moment it really is a sight to see it swing.  This is the first time I’ve been to Santiago and not seen it in action.

We have a group in Brisbane called Brisbane Camino Pilgrims.   There are quite a few members.  I knew some of our members were on various Caminos at the moment, and I could see roughly where they were through FB.  It dawned on me a few days ago that we might all arrive in Santiago within a day or so of each other…. and we did.   So, we arranged to meet up this afternoon and go out for tapas.  It was so lovely catching up with everyone, especially as it was all coincidental.  It turned into a great evening.

On the way back to my digs, I decided if they could keep me for the spare days I have, I’d just stay put and find some things to do.  They didn’t have any spare rooms.  I looked on various booking sights, and everything in Santiago de Compostela was quite expensive.   So… I decided I’d walk out to finisterre.  I’m going to be back in some albergues, though, because accommodation is tight.   I threw my towel away a week or so ago, so I’m not sure how I’ll shower, but I’ll figure something out.

I just live having clean things.

Some Brisbane Camino Pilgrims.   What a coincidence to be here together.   We had a great night.

O Pedruso – Santiago de Compostela

Sunday 12th May 2024

19.6km  28.866 steps.

It was supposed to rain today, so I had all my rain gear ready to go, but it didn’t rain at all it just stayed mostly cloudy and quite a nice temperature.

There were a couple of decent climbs today, although not real lung busters.  I think the energy of all the other excited pilgrims pulled everyone along.

It’s always a thrill arriving in Santiago and hearing the Galician pipes (like bagpipes but with only one drone) gradually getting lounder as you get closer to the tunnel that leads to Obridoiro Plaza which is in front of the cathedral. 

There were a lot of pilgrims in the square, all realising that they’ve spent quite some time and covered many kilometres to arrive at this place, and finally, they are here.  It’s quite an emotional experience.

I saw Victoria, the young German girl I’d walked with a couple of days ago, waving at me.  I went over, and we hugged.  It was lovely.  Eventually, we went and sat on the wall near the cathedral, and I heard a voice I recognised from home.  It was Martin from our Brisbane Camino Pilgrims group.  I knew that he would be here somewhere from following his posts on FB.

I decided it was time to go and collect my Compostela… (we’ve spoken about what that is).  As I rounded the corner to the Pilgrims Office, there was Ross and Emma, who are also from our Brisbane group.   It was wonderful to see them.  They’ve just completed the Portuguese Camino.  Paul from our Brisbane group arrived from the Portuguese Camino a couple of days ago, too.  Helen and her brother Paul from our group will arrive from Camino del Norte tomorrow.  All by coincidence and mostly from different routes.  I realised from seeing people’s FB  posts a few days ago that we’d possibly all converge on Santiago de Compostela about the same time, and we did!  We couldn’t have planned that if we’d tried.  It’s amazing, and I’m looking forward to catching up with them all tomorrow.

After getting settled and cleaned up in my accommodation, I went and had lunch with Gert and Elise.  They had been so kind to me when I was ill a few weeks ago.  It was so lovely to see them.  I woofed down a huge plate of roast lamb… delicious.

In the evening, I caught up with Martin for tapas.  It was lovely talking to someone from home and catching up on each other’s travels.

So…. I’m here in Santiago.  Along the  way, I’ve been blessed to meet so many wonderful people.  I’m so very grateful that I’ve again had the opportunity and ability to make this journey.  Tomorrow, I’ll go to Mass and give thanks.

I’ll also start thinking about what to do next.  I’ve got a few days up my sleeve, so maybe I’ll go for a walk!

Eucalyptus trees.

I made it.

Cathedral with many pilgrims in the square.

Accommodation

Hospidaria San Martin Pinario €58 for two nights inc breakfast.   I emailed to secure this accommodation.   I’m in a pilgrim unrenovated room.  It’s got ensuite and very nice for the price and two nights.  They also have renovated room that are more expensive.

Arzur – O Pedruso

Saturday 11th May 2024

22.3km  32.181 steps.

It turned out to be a great idea to upgrade to a cabin with its own bathroom yesterday (I was at a camping ground in a cabin).  Late in the afternoon, it started to rain and then later on rain and a thunderstorm throughout the night.  I would have been going to the amenities block in all of that weather if I hadn’t upgraded.  Lucky me.  It was nice to hear the rain on the wooden roof, though.

I thought it would still be a rainy day and was so surprised when I pulled back the curtain and saw a bright blue sky.  I still kept my nice new poncho handy just in case.

Today’s walk was in a beautiful forest with lots of climbs and descents but no major lung busters like yesterday, thank goodness.   There was still plenty of work to be done on the walk just the same, and plenty stops to take photos, but they all look a bit the same with beautiful tunnels of trees, small villages, and just lots of green everywhere.

Tonight, I’m staying in a pension that Fuzz and I stayed in in 2015 with Beate and Jan, who we met on the Camino del Norte.  I thought I’d stay here for old times’ sake.   I showed the guy running the place a photo of back then, and he was really happy.   He gave me a can of beer.  I think I’m even in the same room.

So… tomorrow is my last day on the Camino Frances.   I’m looking forward to arriving at the Cathedral. 

My cabin last night at the camping ground.

That is an Hórreo.   We’ve already spoken about those…

Another different shaped Hórreo.

So… that’s the distance left to walk to Santiago de Compostela (apparently).

Accommodation   Pension Codesal $116 AUD.  It’s a bit overpriced, but in this town, that’s how it is.  It’s clean, they are very friendly.

Palas de Rai – Azur (just short of)

Friday May 10th 2024

28km 40.212 steps.

Bloody hell! Lots of lung buster climbs today. They’re brutal towards the end of the day….on a very hot day.  What was I thinking?

I didn’t expect today to be so long.  I could have easily halved today.  Back in Leon, when I decided I’d book myself the rest of the way through to Santiago, for some reason, I must have thought 26km would be ok.  But it wasn’t 26km, it was 28km.  Now you might think… 2km extra, what’s she on about? It’s only another 2km, but 26km was my outer limit.  I didn’t take into account just how hilly it was, and of course, I had no idea what the weather would be.

So now I know I can do 28km of lung buster brutal hills on a very hot day… but I don’t like it and I’m not going to do it again.

Having said all of the above, it was a beautiful walk mostly in the forest, with birds chirping happily away.  The forest added shade, and I certainly noticed how hot it was when I wasn’t in the forest.

I walked by myself again today, and while I’ve had some company and enjoyed it for a couple of days, it was nice to have my own thoughts again.

I’m staying at a camping site tonight in a little modern wooden cabin, which I thought would be fun.  It’s closer to Arzur than Ribadiso, which is where I thought I’d finish today.  The upside is that I’m about 2km closer to tomorrow’s end than I thought, plus I’ve already done the big climb, and I won’t have to do it tomorrow.

The downside…  I guess I’ll know for sure tomorrow.

States on leaving Palas de Rai.

Hórreo.   These are very old grain stores that were used to dry the grain and keep out vermin.

Accommodation

Teiroba Base Camp  €55.

Clean.  Various levels of accommodation available.  

Portomarin- Palas de Rei

Thursday  9th May 2024

26km 37.242 steps.

Today was another fantastic day….

I started about half an hour later than I would have liked, but it didn’t matter.  It’s not like I had anything to do except walk… and walk I did.  I expected today to be 23km, and I was really surprised when I saw I’d actually walked 26km! 

There was quite a bit of climbing for the first half of the day, and it really didn’t take long to warm up.  The second half undulated until  a nice gradual downhill towards the end.  The weather was perfect, and there was often a bar or restaurant for some sustenance.

What made today special was the two young German (18 & 19 year olds) that I walked with all day.  They spoke perfect English and they were great fun.  We passed the time talking about all sorts of things, and we laughed a lot.  It was heartwarming to spend time with these wonderful, intelligent young people.   Their ideals and attitudes filled my heart with hope for the future.

A very special day.

Accommodation

La Do Peregrino €55.  Booking.c

Clean, comfortable